The Short Answer
Choosing a home safe comes down to four things: what you’re protecting, what type of safe suits your home, where you install it, and how it’s secured. Get any one of these wrong and the safe isn’t doing its job. A licensed locksmith can guide you through all four in a single visit — and install it properly while they’re there.
Step 1: Know What You’re Protecting
Different valuables need different types of protection. Before you look at a single safe model, be honest about what you need to store. This single decision will eliminate half the options on the market.
- Cash and jewellery: You need a burglary-rated safe with solid steel construction and a high locking bolt count. The insurer may also specify a minimum rating — check your policy before you buy.
- Documents and passports: Paper chars at 350°C and melts at lower temperatures on coated documents. You need a fireproof rated safe — and ideally one that’s also water-resistant in case of flooding or a sprinkler system activation.
- Firearms: Australian law requires firearms to be stored in an approved steel safe (or steel cabinet for Category A/B). The safe must comply with state regulations and be bolted in place. A licensed locksmith will know the current NSW requirements.
- Digital media and hard drives: Standard fireproof safes aren’t enough. Paper survives up to 177°C internally — digital media starts failing at 52°C. You need a media-rated fireproof safe specifically designed for this.
- Combination of the above: A dual-purpose fire and burglary rated safe, or separate safes for different categories. A locksmith can help you work out the most cost-effective setup.
Step 2: Choose the Right Type of Safe
There are four main types available to Inner West homeowners. Each has genuine advantages — and real drawbacks that are rarely mentioned in product listings.
🗄️
Freestanding Safe
Best for: general household use
Sits on the floor, usually in a wardrobe or utility room. The most common type bought by homeowners.
- Wide range of sizes and budgets
- Easy to relocate if you move
- Must be bolted down — unanchored, it can be carried out in minutes
- Good availability of fireproof and burglary-rated options
🧱
Wall Safe
Best for: concealment and space saving
Recessed into the wall cavity, usually behind a picture or panel. Low profile and discreet.
- Excellent concealment — reduces the chance it’s even found
- Depth is limited by stud spacing (typically 90mm)
- Lower burglary rating than a quality freestanding safe
- Requires a licensed installer — avoid DIY
🏠
Floor Safe
Best for: maximum burglary resistance
Set into a concrete slab or subfloor, then concreted in place. Near-impossible to remove once installed.
- Highest physical security of any residential safe type
- Can be hidden under carpet, floorboards, or furniture
- More complex installation — involves concrete or subfloor work
- Very difficult to access if you forget the combination
🔥
Fireproof Safe
Best for: documents and records
Double-walled with fire-resistant material between the walls. Keeps internal temperature below the ignition point of paper during a fire.
- Look for a minimum 1-hour fire rating for home use
- Internal dims are smaller than external — check both measurements
- Fireproof does not mean burglar-proof — you may need both
- Water resistance is a separate (important) feature to check
👆
Biometric / Digital Safe
Best for: fast daily access
Opens via fingerprint, PIN, or app. Fast, convenient, and increasingly common in Inner West homes in 2026.
- Access in under 3 seconds — practical for frequently used safes
- Battery dependent — always have a key override backup
- Budget biometric readers can fail; buy a reputable brand
- Multi-user fingerprint registration is useful for families
💊
Medication / Drug Safe
Best for: securing prescription medications
Smaller, often wall-mounted safes designed for controlled substance storage in homes and medical settings.
- Required in some homes where children, carers, or visitors are present
- Compliant with PBS and Schedule 8 storage where required
- Simpler locking mechanism — focus is on childproofing and access control
- Easy to install in a bathroom, bedroom, or laundry
Step 3: Understand Safe Ratings
Safe ratings exist so you can compare models objectively. The two key rating systems you’ll encounter in Australia are burglary ratings and fire ratings. Don’t buy a safe without understanding what these actually mean.
| Rating |
What It Means |
Good For |
| B-Rated |
Basic construction — thin steel walls (under 6mm), basic lock. Entry level. |
Low Risk Items |
| C-Rated |
Heavier steel body, better lock, more locking bolts. Common for home use. |
General Home Use |
| UL TL-15 / TL-30 |
Tested against tool attack for 15 or 30 minutes respectively. Commercial grade. |
Cash & Jewellery |
| 1-Hour Fire Rated |
Internal temp stays below 177°C for 60 minutes in a 927°C fire. Standard for homes. |
Documents |
| 2-Hour Fire Rated |
Extended protection for large homes or high fire-risk areas. |
Documents + Records |
| Media Rated |
Internal temp below 52°C. Essential for USB drives, external HDDs, SD cards. |
Digital Media |
Insurance tip: Many home and contents insurers will only cover cash or jewellery above a certain value if it’s stored in a safe that meets their specified minimum rating. Check your policy documents or call your insurer before buying. A licensed locksmith can recommend safes that meet the most common insurer requirements.
Step 4: Location — Where You Put It Matters as Much as the Safe Itself
The location of your safe is one of the most overlooked decisions in the whole process. A quality safe in the wrong place is nearly as bad as no safe at all.
✅
Walk-in wardrobe — rear corner
Out of sight, harder for a burglar to locate quickly. Good for a bolted freestanding safe.
✅
Home office — bolted under desk or in cabinet
Accessible for daily use, but not visible to a visitor scanning the room.
✅
Garage or utility room — bolted to concrete slab
Excellent anchoring on a concrete floor. Less obvious to a home intruder than bedroom areas.
✅
Concealed floor safe — under carpet or tile
Maximum security. Completely invisible when covered. Requires professional installation.
❌
Master bedroom — visible in wardrobe
This is the first place most burglars check. A visible safe here is a target, not protection.
❌
Unanchored on a shelf or in a cupboard
Any safe that isn’t bolted down can be carried out and broken into off-site at leisure.
Step 5: Why Professional Installation Makes the Difference
This is the step most people skip. They buy a safe online, get it delivered, push it into the wardrobe, and call it done. Here’s what that actually achieves: a very expensive object a burglar can pick up and walk out with.
Professional installation by a licensed locksmith means the safe is anchored correctly for the surface it’s on, concealed where possible, and tested before the technician leaves. It also means someone who has opened hundreds of safes — and seen how burglars attack them — has advised you on placement.
1
Site assessment
A locksmith visits, reviews your home layout, and recommends the optimal location based on your safe type, flooring, wall construction, and traffic patterns. This is where mistakes are prevented before they happen.
2
Surface and structural check
Concrete, timber, or suspended floor — the anchoring method varies completely. A locksmith will check joist direction, slab thickness, and wiring or plumbing runs before drilling anything.
3
Anchoring and bolt-down
Expanding bolts for concrete, coach bolts through timber with a backing plate — the correct hardware and technique for your specific surface. A freestanding safe bolted to concrete slab can withstand several tonnes of removal force.
4
Combination and access setup
Your locksmith sets up the lock mechanism, programs any digital or biometric access, confirms your combination or code works correctly, and walks you through the override procedure in case of battery failure or lockout.
5
Documentation
You receive the serial number, model details, and a record of your combination stored safely (not inside the safe itself). This is critical for insurance claims and for any future service work.
Don’t rely on the installation instructions in the box. Manufacturer instructions are written for every possible scenario, not your specific home. They don’t account for suspended floors, hollow walls, plumbing runs, or the actual anchoring torque required for your slab type. A licensed locksmith who has installed hundreds of safes will do this right the first time.
We supply and install safes across the Inner West.
We’ll come to you, assess your home, recommend the right safe, and install it properly. One call, one visit, done.
Call 02 9186 3325
How Much Does Safe Installation Cost in Sydney?
Cost depends on the type of safe, the installation method, and the surface being anchored into. Here’s a general guide for Inner West homes:
| Service |
Typical Range |
Notes |
| Freestanding safe installation (bolt-down) |
$120 – $250 |
Concrete slab is fastest. Timber subfloor may add complexity. |
| Wall safe installation |
$180 – $350 |
Depends on wall type and whether a backing panel is required. |
| Floor safe installation (in-slab) |
$350 – $700+ |
Involves concrete cutting. Pricing varies significantly by slab depth. |
| Safe supply + installation (combined) |
From $400 |
We source, deliver, and install. Often more cost-effective than buying separately. |
These are estimates only. We’ll give you a clear written quote before any work begins — no surprises.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best location for a home safe? ▾
Avoid the master bedroom — it’s the first place a burglar checks. The best locations are a walk-in wardrobe rear corner, a home office, or a garage bolted to a concrete slab. Concealed floor safes offer the highest level of security when installed properly.
Do I need a fireproof safe if I have home insurance? ▾
Possibly, yes. Some insurers require documents like property titles, passports, or policy certificates to be stored in a fireproof safe. Even with full insurance, original documents cannot always be replaced. A fireproof safe protects what your policy can’t reimburse.
Can I install a wall safe myself? ▾
Technically, yes — but it’s not recommended. Wall safes require precise cutting between studs, correct backing, and proper sealing. Done incorrectly, the safe sits loose in the wall and offers very little resistance. A licensed locksmith will ensure it’s mounted correctly and concealed properly.
How heavy should my safe be? ▾
Heavier is generally better — but weight alone isn’t enough. A safe over 300kg is extremely difficult to remove, but most residential safes weigh between 30 and 150kg. Any safe under 300kg should be bolted to the floor or wall. A lighter safe that’s properly anchored is far more secure than a heavy safe that’s just sitting on the carpet.
Do you supply safes as well as install them? ▾
Yes. We can supply, deliver, and install a range of residential and commercial safes. We’ll recommend the right model for your needs and budget — including fire-rated, burglary-rated, biometric, wall, floor, and medication safes. Call us to discuss what you’re looking for.
What safe brands do you work with in the Inner West? ▾
We work with most major brands including CMI, Chubb, Yale, Safewell, Diplomat, and others. If you’ve already purchased a safe, we can install it regardless of brand. If you’re buying new, we’ll recommend a model that suits your risk profile and budget.
Ready to get a safe installed in the Inner West?
We supply, deliver, and install. One call — we handle the rest. Licensed, local, and available 24/7.
02 9186 3325
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